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Jewelry Education Guides

Metal Types Guide

Understanding the various metals used in jewelry is essential for making informed purchasing decisions. Each metal has unique properties that affect appearance, durability, maintenance requirements, and price.

Precious Metals

Precious metals have been used in jewelry for thousands of years, valued for their rarity, luster, and resistance to corrosion. These traditional metals remain the standard for fine jewelry.

Gold

Pure gold (24K) is soft and rarely used in jewelry without alloying. Gold is mixed with other metals to increase durability and create different colors. Karat refers to gold purity, with 24K being 100% pure gold.

Varieties

TypeCompositionPropertiesCommon FormsBest For
Yellow GoldGold mixed with silver and copperTraditional gold color; warmer tone with higher karat; hypoallergenic in higher karats10K (41.7%), 14K (58.3%), 18K (75%), 22K (91.7%)Classic designs, traditional settings, and contrasting with colorful gemstones
White GoldGold mixed with white metals like nickel, palladium, or zinc and plated with rhodiumSilvery appearance; rhodium plating needs periodic renewal; may contain nickel (potential allergen)10K, 14K, 18KModern designs, setting diamonds and clear gemstones, alternative to platinum at lower cost
Rose GoldGold mixed with higher copper content and some silverWarm pink to reddish hue; does not tarnish; stronger than yellow gold; vintage appeal10K, 14K, 18KVintage-inspired designs, romantic pieces, mixed metal jewelry
Green GoldGold mixed with higher silver content and reduced copperPale greenish-yellow hue; less common; sometimes used as accent color14K, 18KNature-inspired designs, unique pieces, mixed metal applications

Care and Maintenance

Clean with mild soap and warm water; soft cloth for drying and polishing; store separately to avoid scratches; professional cleaning recommended twice yearly.

Silver

Silver is highly valued for its lustrous white appearance. Pure silver (999) is too soft for jewelry, so it is typically alloyed with copper for strength.

Varieties

TypeCompositionPropertiesCommon FormsBest For
Fine Silver99.9% pure silver (999)Very soft and malleable; bright white luster; tarnishes easily; rarely used in jewelry except for certain artisan piecesArt jewelry, specialized pieces, silver clay designsSimple designs with minimal wear, art pieces, decorative items
Sterling Silver92.5% silver, 7.5% copper or other metals (925)Standard for silver jewelry; good durability; prone to tarnishing; can cause reactions in those with copper sensitivityMost silver jewelry, silverware, decorative itemsEveryday jewelry, detailed designs, affordable luxury pieces
Argentium Silver93.5-96% silver with germanium replacing some copperMore tarnish-resistant than sterling; brighter white color; higher purity; more expensivePremium silver jewelry, designer piecesHigher-end silver jewelry with reduced maintenance requirements
Silver-Filled/PlatedBase metal covered with a layer of silver through bonding or electroplatingAffordable; thin silver layer that eventually wears off; not suitable for everyday wear; can cause allergic reactions when base metal is exposedFashion jewelry, costume pieces, affordable accessoriesOccasional wear pieces, fashion accessories with limited lifespan

Care and Maintenance

Store in anti-tarnish bags or with anti-tarnish strips; clean with silver polishing cloth; avoid chlorine, sulfur, and prolonged exposure to air; professional cleaning for intricate pieces.

Platinum

Platinum is a naturally white precious metal prized for its rarity, durability, and prestige. Used in high-end jewelry, it's hypoallergenic and maintains its appearance without requiring replating.

Varieties

TypeCompositionPropertiesCommon FormsBest For
Pure Platinum95-99.9% platinumDense and heavy (60% heavier than gold); extremely durable; develops patina over time; naturally white; hypoallergenic; holds gemstones securely950 Platinum (95% platinum, 5% ruthenium/iridium/cobalt)High-end engagement rings, wedding bands, heirloom pieces, and setting valuable gemstones
Platinum AlloysPlatinum mixed with palladium, iridium, ruthenium, or cobaltSlightly improved workability while maintaining platinum's key benefits; still hypoallergenic; premium pricing900 Platinum, 950 PlatinumLuxury jewelry with specific working requirements

Care and Maintenance

Clean with mild soap and warm water; professional cleaning and polishing recommended; develops patina that can be maintained or polished away according to preference.

Alternative Metals

Contemporary jewelry has embraced a variety of alternative metals that offer unique properties, aesthetics, and often more affordable price points compared to traditional precious metals.

Titanium

A lightweight yet strong metal with a dark silver-gray appearance. Titanium is highly resistant to corrosion and extremely biocompatible.

Key Properties

Extremely lightweight (45% lighter than steel); very strong; scratch-resistant; hypoallergenic; cannot be resized; difficult to work with

Best For

Men's wedding bands, contemporary designs, those with metal allergies, and active lifestyles

Care and Maintenance

Clean with mild soap and water; highly resistant to tarnish and corrosion; can be polished to restore shine

Tungsten Carbide

An extremely hard metal compound made from tungsten and carbon. Known for its exceptional scratch resistance and dark gray color.

Key Properties

Extremely hard (nearly impossible to scratch); heavy weight; cannot be resized; brittle—can crack under extreme pressure; affordable; darker gray color

Best For

Men's wedding bands, scratch-resistant everyday rings, modern industrial aesthetic

Care and Maintenance

Wipe clean with damp cloth; avoid harsh impacts that could crack the material; cannot be repaired if broken

Stainless Steel

An alloy of steel with chromium that provides excellent corrosion resistance. Popular for fashion jewelry and affordable alternatives.

Key Properties

Excellent corrosion resistance; affordable; durable; some grades are hypoallergenic (316L); heavier than titanium; industrial appearance

Best For

Fashion jewelry, casual wear, industrial designs, and budget-conscious shoppers

Care and Maintenance

Easy to clean with mild soap and water; highly resistant to corrosion; polishing cloth restores shine

Cobalt Chrome

A bright white metal alloy with excellent wear resistance and a color similar to white gold or platinum.

Key Properties

Bright white appearance without plating; highly scratch resistant; can be resized (unlike titanium and tungsten); hypoallergenic; affordable alternative to precious white metals

Best For

Wedding bands, bright white metal appearance at lower cost, alternative to white gold

Care and Maintenance

Clean with mild soap and water; polish with soft cloth; resistant to tarnishing

Palladium

A rare platinum group metal with a naturally white color. Lighter than platinum but with many similar properties.

Key Properties

Naturally white; does not need plating; hypoallergenic; 40% lighter than platinum; maintains bright finish; resistant to tarnish; more expensive than gold but less than platinum

Best For

Alternative to platinum; white metal jewelry with lighter weight; wedding bands and engagement ring settings

Care and Maintenance

Clean with mild soap and water; professional polishing for scratches; requires less maintenance than white gold

Metal Comparison

This comparison helps you evaluate different metals based on key characteristics to find the perfect match for your lifestyle, preferences, and budget.

CriteriaGoldSilverPlatinumTitaniumTungsten
Durability14K and lower karat gold is fairly durable; higher karat gold (18K+) is softer and more prone to scratchesSoft and malleable; prone to scratching and bendingExtremely durable; develops patina rather than losing metal when scratchedExcellent scratch resistance; very strong and durableExtremely hard and scratch-resistant; can crack or shatter if struck forcefully
WeightModerate weight; 18K heavier than 14KLighter than gold and platinumHeaviest precious metal; about 60% heavier than 14K goldVery lightweight; about 45% lighter than steelVery heavy; similar to or heavier than platinum
CostHigh cost; varies by karat, with 18K+ being more expensiveMost affordable precious metalMost expensive traditional jewelry metalAffordable; generally less expensive than goldAffordable; similar price range to titanium
HypoallergenicHigher karat yellow gold (18K+) is generally hypoallergenic; white gold often contains nickel (common allergen)Often causes reactions in those with copper sensitivityExcellent; rarely causes allergic reactionsExcellent; rarely causes allergic reactionsGood; rarely causes allergic reactions if quality grade
ResizabilityEasily resized by experienced jewelersEasily resized by experienced jewelersCan be resized but requires specialized equipment and expertiseCannot be resized; replacement required if size changesCannot be resized; replacement required if size changes

Choosing the Right Metal

The perfect metal for your jewelry depends on various factors including lifestyle, budget, aesthetic preferences, and any metal sensitivities. Here are some guidelines to help with your decision.

For Active Lifestyles

If you work with your hands or lead an active lifestyle, consider metals that resist scratching and damage:

  • Platinum (develops patina rather than losing metal)
  • Titanium (extremely scratch resistant and lightweight)
  • Tungsten carbide (virtually scratch-proof, though can crack under extreme force)
  • Lower karat gold (10K-14K) is more durable than higher karat options

For Metal Sensitivities

If you have sensitive skin or known metal allergies, focus on hypoallergenic options:

  • Platinum (extremely pure and hypoallergenic)
  • Titanium (biocompatible and rarely causes reactions)
  • High-karat yellow gold (18K+)
  • Palladium (member of the platinum family)
  • Avoid nickel-containing white gold and sterling silver if you have sensitivities

For Value and Investment

If you view jewelry as an investment or want to maximize future value:

  • Platinum (rare and valuable; maintains weight over time)
  • Higher karat gold (18K+) contains more pure gold
  • Palladium (increasingly valuable due to rarity)
  • Avoid plated jewelry which depreciates as plating wears off
  • Consider resale potential: precious metals retain value better than alternatives

For Budget-Conscious Shoppers

If you're looking for quality without the premium price tag:

  • Sterling silver (affordable with a precious metal look)
  • Lower karat gold (10K) has less gold content but similar appearance
  • Titanium and stainless steel (durable, modern look at fraction of gold's cost)
  • Gold-filled jewelry (thicker gold layer than plated options; more durable)
  • Tungsten carbide (affordable with premium feel and extreme durability)

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between white gold and platinum?
While they appear similar, white gold is gold alloyed with white metals and plated with rhodium for a bright white appearance. This plating wears off over time, requiring periodic replating. Platinum is naturally white, needs no plating, is more dense (heavier), more durable, more expensive, and is hypoallergenic. Platinum develops a patina over time rather than losing metal when scratched.
What does karat mean in gold jewelry?
Karat (abbreviated K) indicates the purity of gold in a piece of jewelry. Pure gold is 24K (99.9% gold). Since pure gold is too soft for everyday wear, it's alloyed with other metals for durability. 18K gold is 75% pure gold (18/24), 14K is 58.3% pure gold (14/24), and 10K is 41.7% pure gold (10/24). Higher karat gold has a richer gold color and is more valuable, but lower karat gold is more durable and practical for everyday wear.
Can tungsten or titanium rings be resized?
No, tungsten carbide and titanium rings cannot be resized due to their extreme hardness and material properties. If your finger size changes, the ring would need to be replaced entirely. This is an important consideration before purchasing these alternative metals, especially for engagement and wedding rings that you plan to wear for many years as finger sizes may change over time.
Why does my sterling silver jewelry tarnish?
Sterling silver tarnishes due to a chemical reaction between the silver and sulfur-containing substances in the air. The copper alloy in sterling silver (7.5%) accelerates this process. To minimize tarnishing, store silver jewelry in anti-tarnish pouches or boxes with anti-tarnish strips, keep it away from household chemicals and cosmetics, and clean it regularly with a silver polishing cloth. Wearing your silver jewelry regularly can actually help prevent tarnish as the natural oils in your skin keep the silver clean.
Is rose gold more expensive than yellow gold?
Rose gold is typically priced similarly to yellow gold of the same karat. The price difference between gold colors is minimal because the gold content is the same—the only difference is in the metals used for alloying. Rose gold uses more copper, which is inexpensive. Sometimes rose gold may even be slightly less expensive to produce than white gold, which requires rhodium plating. However, market trends, designer brands, and craftsmanship affect pricing more than the color variation itself.

Ready to explore our metal options?

Browse our collection of fine jewelry in a variety of metals, or work with our designers to create a custom piece in your preferred metal.